Review: The Food at Chicago’s Yūgen Is Delightful but Sometimes Overwrought

Mari Katsumura was walking down West Randolph Street in Chicago’s restaurant-jammed West Loop on her way home from work and at a crossroads in her career. She was the pastry chef and savory sous chef at a forgettable restaurant called Gideon Sweet, “and I decided that it was time to move on,” she remembers. The […]

Fauna in Mexico’s Valle de Guadalupe Is Serving Classic Dishes Better Than Anywhere Else

Chef David Castro Hussong of Fauna, the two-year-old restaurant tucked into Bruma, a resort in Baja California’s wine country, bristles when people compare his spot to some of the big names in the industry. “It’s not Pujol,” he says, of Enrique Olvera’s seminal Mexico City restaurant. “It’s not the French Laundry of the Valle de […]

Review: In Vegas, Mordeo Sells Status Shellfish, Big Red Wines, and Dry-Aged Strips Off the Strip

The man with the fuzzy white hair and thick black glasses admired the strip of ham draped over his finger, raising it up to the light the way a jewelry thief might appraise a strand of stolen diamonds. He flipped the meat into his palm and bowed to it three times, deeply inhaling the dank, […]